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Exploring the beautiful nature of California
California Nature: Mountains
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There really isn’t much you can’t do in
California. It’s a state with more than its share of mountains,
ancient forests, lovely beaches, and baking deserts.
Almost anywhere in California, mountains are in sight, charming
and glorifying every landscape. The main central portion of
California displays only one valley, and two chains of mountains
which seem almost perfectly regular in trend and height: the
Coast Range on the west side, the Sierra Nevada on the east.
These two ranges coming together in curves on the north and
south enclose a magnificent basin, with a level floor more than
400 miles long, and from 35 to 60 miles wide. This is the grand
Central Valley of California, the waters of which have only one
outlet to the sea through the Golden Gate. The Coast Range,
rising against the ocean, from 2000 to 8000 feet high, is
composed of innumerable forest-crowned spurs, ridges, and
rolling hill-waves which enclose a multitude of smaller valleys;
some looking out through long, forest-lined
vistas to the sea; others, with but few trees, to the Central
Valley; while a thousand others yet smaller are embosomed and
concealed in mild, round-browed hills, each with its own
climate, soil, and productions.
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California's coastal mountains trace a
sinuous 800-mile course from the northwest corner of Del Norte
County south to the Mexican border. Except for a break in the
chain at the Golden Gate, they form a continuous series of
ranges and valleys, separating the coast from the Great Central
Valley and the deserts of the interior. This mountainous barrier
has a dramatic effect on California's climate: storms
originating over the Pacific Ocean bring rain to the western
slopes, while the eastern slopes remain relatively dry. The coastal mountains constitute four geomorphic
provinces or geologic regions within California. The
northern-most is the Klamath Mountains province, which lies near
the coast in northwestern Del Norte County and extends north
into Oregon. The northwest-trending Coast Ranges, the largest of
the state's geomorphic provinces, rises abruptly from the shore
in northern Humboldt County and extend 400 miles south to the
Santa Ynez River in Santa Barbara County. The Transverse Ranges
lie along an east- west axis, from the Santa Barbara coast to
the Mojave Desert, creating a natural barrier between Central
and Southern California. The massive Peninsular Ranges complete
the coastal mountain system, extending south from the Los
Angeles Basin to the tip of the Baja Peninsula.
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The Sierra is about 500 miles long, 70 miles
wide, and from 7000 to nearly 15,000 feet high. Glaciers are
still at work in the shadows of the peaks, and thousands of
lakes and meadows shine and bloom beneath them, and the whole
range is furrowed with canons to a depth of from 2000 to 5000
feet, in which once flowed majestic glaciers, and in which now
flow and sing a band of beautiful rivers. Every winter the High
Sierra and the middle forest region get snow in glorious
abundance, and even the foot-hills are at times whitened. Then
all the range looks like a vast beveled wall of purest marble.
The rough places are then made smooth, the death and decay of
the year is covered gently and kindly, and the ground seems as
clean as the sky. And though silent in its flight from the
clouds, and when it is taking its place on rock, or tree, or
grassy meadow, how soon the gentle snow finds a voice! Slipping
from the heights, gathering in avalanches, it booms and roars
like thunder, and makes a glorious show as it sweeps down the
mountain-side, arrayed in long, silken streamers and wreathing,
swirling films of crystal dust. |
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The north half of the range is mostly
covered with floods of lava, and dotted with volcanoes and
craters, some of them recent and perfect in form, others in
various stages of decay. The south half is composed of granite
nearly from base to summit, while a considerable number of
peaks, in the middle of the range, are
capped with metamorphic slates, among which are Mounts Dana and
Gibbs to the east of Yosemite Valley. Mount Whitney, the
culminating point of the range near its southern extremity,
lifts its helmet-shaped crest to a height of nearly 14,700 feet.
Mount Shasta, a colossal volcanic cone, rises to a height of
14,440 feet at the northern extremity, and forms a noble
landmark for all the surrounding region within a radius of a
hundred miles. Residual masses of volcanic rocks occur
throughout most of the granitic southern portion also, and a
considerable number of old volcanoes on the flanks, especially
along the eastern base of the range near Mono Lake and
southward. But it is only to the northward that the entire
range, from base to summit, is covered with lava.
The Cinder Cone marks the most recent volcanic eruption in the
Sierra. It is a symmetrical truncated cone about 700 feet high,
covered with gray cinders and ashes, and has a regular unchanged
crater on its summit, in which a few small pines are growing.
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These trees show that the age of the
cone is not less than eighty years. It stands between two lakes,
which a short time ago were one. Before the cone was built, a
flood of rough vesicular lava was poured into the lake, cutting
it in two, and, overflowing its banks, the fiery flood advanced
into the pine-woods, overwhelming the trees in its way, the
charred ends of some of which may still be seen projecting from
beneath the snout of the lava-stream where it came to rest.
Later still there was an eruption of ashes and loose obsidian
cinders, probably from the same vent, which, besides forming the
Cinder Cone, scattered a heavy shower over the surrounding woods
for miles to a depth of from six inches to several feet. The
history of this last Sierra eruption is also preserved in the
traditions of the Pitt River Indians. They tell of a fearful
time of darkness, when the sky was black with ashes and smoke
that threatened every living thing with death, and that when at
length the sun appeared once more it was red like blood.
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